Humans of Songkhla: Tourism and Conservation
Mr Som Bwoon skillfully prepares Roti
(Source: “A Multi-Ethnic Street” video edited by Hadi Osni”)
Mr Som Bwoon sells Roti, a modest snack made of flour, with sugar and syrup added, along the Pathalung Street in Songkhla. As it looks slightly different from the Roti Prata in Singapore, I curiously bought a serving to give it a try. While Mr Som Bwoon prepares my order without any wasted motions (probably fine-tuned after years of practice), I took the opportunity to start a conversation with him with the help of our Thai friends. He revealed that he was born and raised here, and started his roti business after retiring from an office job years ago. When asked about his views on conserving the heritage of Songkhla, he hopes that Songkhla’s heritage is conserved so more tourists would want to come experience it. He feels that his business would improve if more tourists visits Songkhla. He often encourages tourists to take photographs of his stall and post it on social media.
Mr Mohammad Taha Bin Mahmood on his “motorcy”
(Source: “A Multi-Ethnic Street” video edited by Hadi Osni”)
Along the same street, we entered a coffee shop to seek shelter from the heat and have a cup of tea. There, we met Mr Mohammad Taha Bin Mahmood who works as a motorcycle taxi driver. Hadi spoke to him in Malay and asked about his life in Songkhla. He was born and raised in Songkhla. His grandfather, originally from Sumatra, came to Songkhla to study Islam many years ago. His first job was at the railway station, subsequently, he and his wife opened a restaurant which closed shortly after his wife’s passing, as there was no cook. Now, he works as a motorcycle taxi or “motorcy” driver and owns 3 motorcycles. He works everyday and likes to go to the beach during his free time. He loves the heritage of Songkhla Old Town but is worried about an influx of tourists. He fears the town would be taken over by wealthy individuals and companies that cater solely to the tourists similar to Phuket. “Tourists are welcomed but it would be good for tourism to be handled by the local community”, he says.
I was pleasantly surprised that both Mr Sum Bwoon and Mr Mohammad are happy to have tourists visiting their town. They are glad that foreigners are interested in Songkhla and an increase in tourism would also improve their business. Unfortunately, local communities of heritage sites are often driven out due to the over commercialisation of tourism. In heritage sites, such as Penang and Malacca, high end cafes and hotels displace residents and local coffee shops, leaving only a facade of old architecture to maintain a pretense of its culture and history.
Admittedly, coming from a city inundated with global brands and expensive restaurants and cafes, I do enjoy the air-conditioned spaces and expensive luxury goods. In fact, the first shop which I patronised in Songkhla was a Watsons store in the old town's sole shopping mall. While the development of shopping malls and an occasional cup of Starbucks Coffee ain't a bad thing at all, there has to be a limit to protect local businesses and lower income groups.
Without the local community, their relationships with each other and memories of a place, all that is left for visitors would be a soulless Disneyland. Careful management of tourism and co-operation with the local community is key to preserve local traditions and relationships, both of which holds the true spirit of a place.